Washer & Dryer Repair in Charlotte, NC

Whatever the machine is doing, all you need to tell us is what changed. Below are the usual possibilities behind each symptom and when it is time to call.

Washer not draining

The cycle ends and the drum is still full, or the clothes come out dripping. A washer that will not drain is often blocked by something small in the pump or the drain hose, or held up by a failed drain pump or a lid switch that is not registering. Switch the washer off and leave the water where it is; your technician handles it as part of the diagnosis.

Washer not spinning or leaving clothes soaked

Clothes come out heavy and wet even though the water drained. An unbalanced or overstuffed load can stop a spin, so rule that out first. If a normal load will not spin either, a worn drive belt, a failed motor coupling, a door lock or lid switch, or a control problem may be behind it. The washer is safe to leave alone until we arrive.

Washer leaking onto the floor

Water on the floor during or after a cycle. On a front-loader, a dirty or torn door gasket is a common source. On any washer, a loose or cracked hose, a worn pump, a tub seal, or a water valve that will not shut off can be the cause, and too much detergent can push suds out where water never would. Shut the washer off, mop up, and keep the water away from the outlet.

Washer shaking or banging during the spin cycle

The washer walks, thumps, or sounds like it is trying to leave the room. A heavy single item such as a comforter can unbalance a load, so try spreading it out. If a balanced load still shakes, the washer may not be sitting level, or the suspension rods or shock absorbers that steady the tub may be worn. Stop the cycle if it is violent; a tub that strikes the cabinet damages other parts.

Dryer not heating or taking two cycles to dry

The dryer tumbles and the clothes come out damp or cool. A failed heating element or igniter, a thermal fuse that has opened, a worn thermostat, or lint packed inside the dryer cabinet can all cause it. Because some of these causes start with the dryer overheating, have it checked rather than running extra cycles. If it smells hot or you smell anything burning, stop it and call us.

Dryer squealing, thumping, or drum not turning

A squeal that builds as the dryer warms up, a steady thump, or a motor that hums while the drum sits still. Worn drum rollers, a glazed or stretched belt, a tired idler pulley, or worn drum glides make most of these sounds, and a drum that will not turn at all usually means a broken belt or a failed motor. Shut it off and call before the noise gets worse.

Washer or dryer won't start, or stops with an error code

Nothing happens when you press start, the cycle quits partway through, or letters and numbers flash on the display. A door that is not fully latched, a control lock, or a tripped breaker are the easy ones. Past those, a door lock assembly, a lid switch, a start switch, or a control board can be the cause. Write down the code; it helps your technician narrow the diagnosis.

If your washer is leaking or your dryer smells like it is burning, stop the cycle, switch the machine off, and call us. Please do not pull a machine away from the wall, remove a panel, or reach underneath to look for the problem.

We work on front-load and top-load washers, including high-efficiency top-loaders without an agitator. Front-loaders tend to show trouble through their door gaskets and drain pumps, top-loaders through noise and balance, and high-efficiency machines of both kinds are sensitive to the wrong detergent. Tell us which you have.

A dryer depends on its heat source, its thermostats, and a thermal fuse to keep the heat in check, so a dryer that runs cool, or runs too hot, usually traces back to that side of the machine. Mention the brand and model when you call, and if you have a side-by-side pair and both machines have changed, describe each one.

Each machine has its own model number, often on a label inside the door or around the lid opening; share it if you can find it without moving anything. Leave the machines where they are. Pulling a washer or dryer away from the wall or out of a tight closet is heavy work, and it is part of what you are paying us to handle.

• Power and breaker: make sure the breaker has not tripped and, if you can see the plug without moving the machine, that it is seated.
• Door and lid: close it firmly; neither machine will run unless the latch registers.
• Control lock: if a lock symbol shows on the panel, clear it the way the owner's manual describes.
• Cycle settings: a no-spin or rinse-hold option on the washer, or an air-fluff or low-heat setting on the dryer, explains more "problems" than you would expect.
• Lint screen: pull it, clean it, and put it back. A clogged screen on its own can leave clothes damp.

Stop there. Panels and anything behind the machine are ours to handle.

Call 704-366-2126 and tell us about your washer or dryer. We will offer you a two-hour arrival window, or send your details through our contact page and we will call you back to set the time.

When your technician arrives, the visit starts with a diagnosis. You get a clear explanation of what failed and the total price before anything is replaced. With your OK, we make the repair and run a cycle to confirm it is working.

Every repair we make is backed by a 90-day parts warranty and a 90-day labor warranty.

Over years of use, lint collects inside the dryer cabinet, well beyond the screen you empty after each load. A dryer packed with lint runs hotter and longer than it should, and lint gives a spark something to catch. We clean that lint from inside the dryer during a repair visit or as its own maintenance call. To have your dryer looked over before trouble starts, see our appliance maintenance and inspection page.

Most of the problems on this page are repairs, and a repair that costs a fraction of a new machine is money well spent. A few things tip the decision:

• Age and overall condition. Rust on the tub, a leak from the tub itself, or several problems showing up at once on an older washer argue for replacement; one worn part on a sound machine argues for repair.
• The repair price next to the replacement price. Compare the real number from the diagnosis with the full cost of a comparable new machine, not just the sale price on the tag.
• Matched pairs. When the washer and dryer were bought as a set, repairing the one that failed keeps the pair together, while replacing only one usually means living with a mismatch.

You get the repair price and a straight opinion, and then you choose.

• Do not overload. Clothes need room to move, and overloading strains belts, bearings, and suspension.
• Use the detergent your washer calls for (HE detergent in a high-efficiency machine) in the right amount; too much soap leaves residue, grows odors, and works the pump harder.
• Empty pockets. Coins, pens, and hair ties end up in drain pumps.
• Leave a front-loader's door ajar between loads and wipe the door gasket dry, including inside its folds.
• Clean the lint screen every load, and wash it with warm water now and then if dryer sheets leave a film.
• Keep the floor around both machines clear of lint and clutter.

We work on washers and dryers from the Whirlpool family (Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Amana, Roper, and Estate), the GE family (GE, Monogram, Café, GE Profile, and Hotpoint), Samsung, LG, and Electrolux Group brands, front-load and top-load alike. Not every brand on that list makes laundry machines, so tell us the name on your washer or dryer when you call and we will know where it fits. Our appliance repair services page covers everything else we fix.