Oven, Stove, Range & Cooktop Repair in Charlotte

Whatever you call it in your kitchen, gas or electric, we repair it.

• Ovens: Gas or electric ovens that will not heat, heat unevenly, or will not hold a temperature. An electric oven heats with elements above and below; most gas ovens light a burner with a glowing igniter. Both rely on a temperature sensor and a control to hold the setting.
• Ranges and stoves: Two names for the same appliance, the oven and cooktop combined in one freestanding or slide-in cabinet. If both parts have a problem, tell us about each.
• Cooktops: Separate cooking surfaces set into your counter, whether coil, smooth-top, or gas.
• Wall ovens: Single and double ovens built into your cabinetry. Leave the oven in its cabinet; if a repair calls for sliding it out, your technician handles that.

Microwaves, including the over-the-range model above your stove, have their own page: microwave repair.

A few minutes here can save you a visit, and none of it involves tools or taking anything apart.

• The breaker: An electric range or wall oven runs on a large double breaker. If the clock and lights work but nothing heats, the oven may be getting only part of its power; switch that breaker fully off and back on.
• Locks and modes: Look at the display for a lock icon, a delayed start, or a Sabbath or demo mode. Any of those keeps the oven from heating, and the manual shows how to clear them.
• The clock: On some ranges the oven will not bake until the clock is set after a power outage.
• Self-clean: After a self-clean cycle the door stays locked until the oven cools. Give it time.
• Burner caps: On a gas cooktop, make sure each burner cap sits squarely on its base and is dry. A cap knocked crooked during cleaning, or a wet one after a boil-over, keeps a burner from lighting and makes the igniter click.
• The door: Check that the oven door closes fully and the gasket is not torn or hanging loose.

If you smell gas, do not light a burner or flip a switch; get everyone outside and call your gas utility from there. If the oven or cooktop sparks, smokes, or smells like burning, stop using it, switch it off if you can do so safely, and give us a call.

Oven not heating

Cold after preheating, warm but never reaching temperature, or bake works while broil does not. In an electric oven the bake or broil element, the temperature sensor, a relay on the control board, or the oven getting only part of its power are the usual suspects; in a gas oven an igniter that glows but never gets hot enough to open the gas valve is a frequent cause. Run the safe checks above. If they do not help, call.

Oven not heating evenly or temperature off

One side browns faster, cakes sink, or the oven runs hotter or cooler than the dial. A drifting temperature sensor, a weakened element, a worn door gasket letting heat escape, or a convection fan that has stopped can each throw the temperature off. You can cook around it for a few days; call when results keep changing.

Gas stove burner not lighting or clicking constantly

A burner clicks and clicks but never lights, or the clicking continues after the burner is lit or when every knob is off. A wet or dirty igniter after a spill, a burner cap off its seat, a failed spark module, or a stuck switch can each do it. Dry and reseat the cap first. Clicking with every knob off usually means moisture or a stuck switch; if it continues once the cooktop is dry, call us. Any smell of gas means following the gas safety steps above.

Electric burner or cooktop element not heating

One coil, or one zone on a smooth top, stays cold while the others work. The element itself, its socket, the switch behind the knob, or on a smooth top the control board can be the cause. A smooth top with a cracked glass surface should not be used at all until it is repaired. Tell us which burner is out and whether the others heat normally.

Oven door will not close, latch, or unlock

The door sags, will not shut flat, or stays locked after a self-clean cycle. Worn hinges, a broken latch, a stuck lock motor, or a damaged gasket are the usual causes. A door that does not seal wastes heat and ruins baking, and a stuck lock needs a repair, not force. Call, and do not run self-clean until it is fixed.

Oven error code or controls not responding

Letters and numbers on the display, buttons that do nothing, or a range that beeps on its own. The control board may be flagging a sensor, a door lock, a stuck key, or trouble left behind by a power surge. Write down the exact code. Switching the breaker off for a minute and back on sometimes clears a one-time glitch; if the code returns, call us.

• One call books it: Dial 704-366-2126 with your address, the brand, the model number if you have it, and the symptom. You get a two-hour arrival window instead of an all-day wait.
• Diagnosis first: Your technician inspects the appliance, finds the problem, and explains the repair and its total price before replacing anything.
• Repair with your OK: Once you agree to the price, we make the repair and check that the oven or burner heats the way it should.
• Backed for 90 days: Both the parts and the labor on your repair are warranted for 90 days.

Our founding motto still guides every visit: "Fair prices. Quality work. Every time." Seniors get a discount on repairs; mention it when you call.

• Clean spills once the oven is cool. Sugary spills baked on again and again damage enamel and etch the glass in the door.
• Skip the foil on the oven floor. It traps heat, can fuse to the enamel, and on many ovens blocks the openings the oven uses to move air.
• Use self-clean sparingly. The cycle runs far hotter than normal cooking and is hard on the oven. Never start one the night before a holiday meal.
• Keep gas burner caps and ports clean and dry. Clogged ports give an uneven, yellow flame.
• Treat a smooth top gently. Lift pans rather than sliding them, use flat-bottom cookware, and clean it with the product your manual recommends.
• Check it with an oven thermometer. Many ovens let you adjust the temperature slightly from the controls, as the owner's manual describes; if yours is off by more than that, tell us.

Ranges and wall ovens tend to be long-lived, and many of the common repairs, such as an element, an igniter, a temperature sensor, a burner switch, a door hinge, or a gasket, cost much less than a new range. Weigh the age of your appliance, its overall condition (a cracked glass top, a rusting cabinet, or doors that no longer seal are marks against it), and how well it cooked before the current problem. Wall ovens and cooktops set into the counter tip toward repair, because a replacement has to fit the existing opening and cabinetry, which makes it a bigger project. Your technician quotes the repair after the diagnosis and will tell you if replacement makes more sense; what you do next is up to you.

For ovens, ranges, and cooktops, we work on the Whirlpool family (Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, Amana, Roper, and Estate), the GE family (GE, Monogram, Café, GE Profile, and Hotpoint), Samsung, LG, and Electrolux Group brands. If you do not see your name there, mention it when you call. If you can find the model label without moving the appliance (on a range it is often on the frame behind the oven door or the storage drawer, and the manual shows where), share it when you call so your technician comes prepared.

Ovens and cooktops are one part of what we repair, and our appliance repair services page lists the rest. If your dishwasher is acting up in the same kitchen, our dishwasher repair page is a good next stop. Hours and our online request form are on the contact page.